Travel Forum / Destinations / Asia / July 2008

I prepare for a trip through the Southern Caucasus starting in Baku
and travel through Azerbaijan to Georgia. I use the Mark Elliot
"Azerbaijan with excursions to Georgia" (2004) and Lonely Planet's
guide to Azerbaijan etc (2008) in planning my trip through Azarbaijan.
I have some questions and need for advice regarding the planning of my
trip.

I speak a quite decent Russian (and very basic indeed Turkish) and
have experience from traveling alone through Central Asia (though not
in the Southern Caucasus). I have very limited mountain trekking
experience. I plan to spend about 1 week of the trip in Azerbaijan.

the north
From what I read I understand that the villages of Xinaliq and
Qusarcay Laza is probably some of the best choices of what to see in
Azerbaijan. If I have understood right the biggest challenge of
reaching Xinaliq is the potential challenge of negotiation a
reasonable price for a shared taxi from Quba to Xinaliq:). According
to my guide a shared Jeep from Quba should cost about AZN 8, but in my
experience theese type of prices can change rappidly. What is a normal
price for a seat in a shared jeep from Quba to Xinaliq?

My guides suggests that it is relatively easy to arrnage a homestay in
Xinaliq by asking around provided that you speak Russian (or Azeri of
course...) even if you show up without a guide. Can anyone confirm if
this is the case?

When it comes to Qusarcay Laza, I have read that as there is a project
for building a ski resort there, it is very likely that there will be
busses to Laza in the near future. Does anyone know if there are buses
going there for the moment? Is hiking from Xinaliq to Qusarcay Laza
sensible for someone with my limitied mountain-hiking experience? Is
guide and horse adviceable?

How realistic is it to hike from Xinaliq southward over the Salavat
pass, through Qabala (south) Laza, to Vandam or Quabala, given that
you hire a giude and a horse? I realize that you will need to camp in
tent on the way, because of the lenght of the trip and that there is
no villages on the way, but is it objectionaly physically difficult
for a person with limited mountain hiking experience? My guide claims
that you can get some challenges with the authorities if you choose
the Quabala route, Does anyone know idf this is (still) the case? In
addition to the scenery the reason for considering this option is to
avoid going all the way back to Baku and only then go west through the
North West towards Georgia.

The Northwest
Based on my guides it looks like Lahic and Saki is the places most
worthwhile in the North-west for exploring rual and town life
respectively. If someone have special recommondations on what to see.

Central
According to my guide the most important attraction Central Azerbaijan
is Goy Gul. At the time of writing both my guides claims it was out of
reach for foreigners. Can anyone confirm if it is still out of reach?

Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions!

Jan