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Travel Forum / Travel Types / RV Travel / August 2006



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fifth wheel mounting

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Slacker Smith - 27 Aug 2006 23:54 GMT
This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:

I need to install a fifth wheel in a long-bed pickup. Having never looked at
how they are mounted, I'm going to take a guess. Maybe 3, 1/2" holes along
each side through the bed? Do they use any kind of re-inforcement strap?
Simple bolt on? And the pin location...........Maybe right over the axle?
Anything I should watch for?

Thanks in advance...........Also any brand/type or is Camping World's Reese
ok?

Slacker
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 00:07 GMT
> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Slacker

I have a Dodge Dually and mines mounted thru the bed and welded to the frame
under the bed.  The mounting brackets are little different with which ever
truck you have and the hitch.  I don'lt know of any that bolt to the frame.

This site has some info on it.

http://www.etrailer.com/fifth-wheel.aspx

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OM - 28 Aug 2006 03:02 GMT
> I have a Dodge Dually and mines mounted thru the bed and welded to the frame
> under the bed.  The mounting brackets are little different with which ever
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> http://www.etrailer.com/fifth-wheel.aspx

MoParMaN,
Either I'm reading you post incorrectly, or something else is wrong. I
rarely see a hitch that is welded. Almost every one I see is bolted.
Even the website you reference states that there is no benefit to
welding if the installation is done correctly (see the FAQ's). I know
my hitch is bolted.

OM
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 03:15 GMT
>> I have a Dodge Dually and mines mounted thru the bed and welded to the
>> frame
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> OM

My last two have been welder to the frame.  Something about not being able
to drill into the type of frame dodge used on the 2003 thru 2006 trucks,
(hydroform or some such crap, your not suppose to drill it and it has to be
welded by someone who knows what their doing.

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--SCUD Coordinates 32.61204 North: 96.92993 West--

William Boyd - 28 Aug 2006 03:54 GMT
>  
>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
>  

My 04 Ram is bolted on.

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BILL P.
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MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 04:44 GMT
>>>>I have a Dodge Dually and mines mounted thru the bed and welded to the
>>>>frame
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> BILL P.

Your warranty is now voided.

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Joe Bedford - 28 Aug 2006 04:19 GMT
> My last two have been welder to the frame.  Something about not being able
> to drill into the type of frame dodge used on the 2003 thru 2006 trucks,
> (hydroform or some such crap, your not suppose to drill it and it has to be
> welded by someone who knows what their doing.

Errrr, no.

Dodge specifically FORBIDS welding to the frame. Check the towing info
on their website.

Drilling holes in the top and botton of the frame is also forbidden,
but not in the sides (within limitations).

For a guy with moparman as a handle, you don't seem to know much about
your truck.

Cheers, Joe
04 Ram 3500 CTD dually

PS: weld not welder
     you're not your
     supposed not suppose
     they're not their
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 04:44 GMT
>> My last two have been welder to the frame.  Something about not being
>> able
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Cheers, Joe
Who asked you smart a.s.  I took it to the dealer and they took care of it.
It is welded a.shole. Now byte me.

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Joe Bedford - 28 Aug 2006 13:31 GMT
> >> My last two have been welder to the frame.  Something about not being
> >> able
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Who asked you smart a.s.  I took it to the dealer and they took care of it.
> It is welded a.shole. Now byte me.

I don't believe any DC dealer would weld a 5th wheel hitch to the frame
of an 03-07 Ram. It was probably some maroon in his backyard.

Cheers, Joe
Eisboch - 28 Aug 2006 13:41 GMT
>> > Dodge specifically FORBIDS welding to the frame. Check the towing info
>> > on their website.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> >
>> > Cheers, Joe

>> Who asked you smart a.s.  I took it to the dealer and they took care of
>> it.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Cheers, Joe

Maybe this link will help:

http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showpost.php?s=945ab7d1fb633acd39bc81c0ac9
ea5ea&p=1110516&postcount=14


or:

http://tinyurl.com/gj3gl

Eisboch
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 14:27 GMT
>>> > Dodge specifically FORBIDS welding to the frame. Check the towing info
>>> > on their website.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Eisboch

That's the reference I used when I had mine done. As you can see, it's fine
to weld as long as the welder knows his stuff.  Also, this exert is from the
Reese web site:

Is it better to weld the brackets to the frame or bolt them?

Be sure that all four corners are tied to the vehicle frame. Each frame
bracket must be bolted to the vehicle frame with two bolts, unless optional
weld is used. These instructions are guidelines only, actual installation is
the responsibility of the installer and the owner.

Either way is acceptable. If the you choose to have the brackets welded to
the frame, Reese requires the brackets to be welded by a certified welder.
When bolting the brackets to the frame, you will need to install two bolts
per bracket to the side of the frame to prevent any movement. Please refer
to the vehicle's owners manual before welding to any frame.

So, old farts, once again you don't know your faqs.

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Joe Bedford - 28 Aug 2006 15:37 GMT
> >> > Dodge specifically FORBIDS welding to the frame. Check the towing info
> >> > on their website.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showpost.php?s=945ab7d1fb633acd39bc81c0ac9
ea5ea&p=1110516&postcount=14

Thanks for correcting me!

I take back my comment about welding being forbidden. My mistake. I
read that TSB when I bought my '04 but "misremembered".

The consensus on TDR is that welding is the less desirable option,
though some farm boys insist that they have to weld because bolted
hitches come loose after bouncing around fields for a long time.

Still, I would never trust a truck dealer to weld a hitch to a frame. I
have not been terribly impressed with their competence.

Cheers, Joe
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 16:02 GMT
>> >> > Dodge specifically FORBIDS welding to the frame. Check the towing
>> >> > info
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> Cheers, Joe

I mislead you too, The dealer I was referring too was an RV dealer (a big
one) not a dodge dealer.

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GBinNC - 28 Aug 2006 05:05 GMT
>PS: weld not welder
>      you're not your
>      supposed not suppose
>      they're not their

LOL. And you guys call *me* pedantic....

GB in NC
Will Sill - 28 Aug 2006 12:32 GMT
I see where "OM" <dittybopk@aol.com> contributed:

MoParMaN wrote:
>> I have a Dodge Dually and mines mounted thru the bed and welded to the frame
>> under the bed.  The mounting brackets are little different with which ever
>> truck you have and the hitch.  I don'lt know of any that bolt to the frame.

OM:
>MoParMaN,
>Either I'm reading you post incorrectly, or something else is wrong. I
>rarely see a hitch that is welded. Almost every one I see is bolted.
>Even the website you reference states that there is no benefit to
>welding if the installation is done correctly (see the FAQ's). I know
>my hitch is bolted.

Duh.

It is foolhardy to either weld or drill into the frame.  Instead, read
the installation information that will come with the hitch. Most
modern frames are coated with a wax-like protective material, and it
is important to be sure that stuff is scraped off to get a secure
clamp.

Free advice, postage paid: After you've hauled your trailer a few
months, check the mounting bolts for tightness.

Will Sill
The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 13:24 GMT
>I see where "OM" <dittybopk@aol.com> contributed:
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> Will Sill
> The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill

I checked my welds, they are still tight.

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Joe Bedford - 28 Aug 2006 13:37 GMT
> "Will Sill" <will@epix.gnet> wrote in message
> >
> > Free advice, postage paid: After you've hauled your trailer a few
> > months, check the mounting bolts for tightness.
>
> I checked my welds, they are still tight.

Your welds have created stress risers in the frame. If you're hauling
more than a pop-up, you may eventually break the FRAME. Try to claim
that on warranty.

Cheers, Joe
Lou - 28 Aug 2006 00:16 GMT
> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Slacker

IIRC  there was considerable discussion about this not too long ago.
Perhaps a google of this group will turn up some info.

Lou
"I was gratified to be able to answer promptly, and I did.
  I said  I didn't know."        --Mark Twain
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 00:21 GMT
>> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Lou

Can he actually google thru the super top secrit "Filters" some of the old
fart pico commi bastards have set up?

Probably, just need to deactivate the geritol feature on the browser.

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Bob Giddings - 28 Aug 2006 00:26 GMT
>This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Slacker

You want to go heavy duty on this.  My truck has two strong rails
mounted sideways in the center of the bed, and the hitch is
pinned to that so it can be removed.

I think on a long bed, the pin should be centered EXACTLY over
the axle.  An inch or two off and handling will be affected. This
is one of those things you ought to get right.

Side to side centering is more important than front to back. I've
known people who had to move it back a little to clear a tool
box, and it turned out okay.  But center it both ways if you can.

But don't take my word for it.  Go look at one that's been done
right.  Don't wing it.

Bob

http://www.arcatapet.net/bobgiddings
Lon VanOstran - 28 Aug 2006 02:31 GMT
>>This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> http://www.arcatapet.net/bobgiddings

Please don't help the guy kill somebody. He doesn't even understand that
the hitch needs to be bolted, via brackets, to the frame. He should take
his hitch to someone with a clue before he starts killing people. He
would be far more apt to get help if he hadn't come to the newsgroup
ranting and raving like a mad man, thus ending up in filters.

Lon
Slacker Smith - 28 Aug 2006 03:25 GMT
> his hitch to someone with a clue before he starts killing people. He
> would be far more apt to get help if he hadn't come to the newsgroup
> ranting and raving like a mad man, thus ending up in filters.
>
> Lon

So stating your opinion here is "ranting and raving" like a mad man?

No problemo.......

I'll go elsewhere.
Bob Giddings - 28 Aug 2006 03:28 GMT
>>>This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
>Lon

That's an odd statement, Lon.  

"But don't take my word for it.  Go look at one that's been done
right.  Don't wing it."

That's going to get somebody killed?  How melodramatic.

Bob

http://www.arcatapet.net/bobgiddings
Lon VanOstran - 28 Aug 2006 11:26 GMT
>>Please don't help the guy kill somebody. He doesn't even understand that
>>the hitch needs to be bolted, via brackets, to the frame. He should take
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> http://www.arcatapet.net/bobgiddings

A properly installed fifth wheel hitch is held, for all practical
purposes, by 4 bolts (4 more go only through the truck box), They must
be the correct bolts, and they must be installed properly. A guy who
hasn't even enough clue to know that it's fastened to the frame, hasn't
enough clue to know what he's looking at when he examines a proper
installation.

Nothing dramatic about my suggestion at all. How would you like to be
coming the other way when his hitch rips out and allows his trailer to
cross the center of the road into your lane?

The guy should pay for a proper installation.

Lon
Richard Ferguson - 28 Aug 2006 03:38 GMT
The fifth wheel will come with mounting instructions.  I believe that
they want you to mount it a couple of inches forward of the rear axle,
which makes sense to me.  However, I am not sure that the fore and aft
placement is critical.   If you assume 2000 pounds pin weight and a 130
inch truck wheelbase, moving the hitch 1 inch will change the weight on
the front wheels by only about 15 pounds, totally insignificant.  But it
is good to follow instructions, and there may be other factors involved
that cause the hitch makers to recommend that placement.

I paid a local hitch shop to mount mine.  The hitch mounting rails are
bolted to L-brackets under the bed, which bolt to the web of the truck
frame.  You don't want to bolt to the flanges of the truck frame,
drilling holes in the flanges will weaken the frame.  I would not
recommend welding to the frame either, the auto makers use pretty exotic
steels, not intended to be welded for the most part.  I imagine that you
have seen the stickers on the big 18 wheeler truck frames that
specifically warn not to drill the flanges or weld to the frame.

The suggestion to look at a hitch installation on a similar truck is a
good one, especially if you can find one with the same brand, model, and
year.

The Reese hitch has a good reputation.  Be sure to get a hitch that will
flex in both axes, I have seen cheap ones that have no side to side
(roll) motion, sounds like trouble when moving over other than flat
terrain.  Since you have a long bed truck, you will not need the slider
hitch.

Richard

> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Slacker

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Max - 28 Aug 2006 05:05 GMT
> The fifth wheel will come with mounting instructions.  I believe that they
> want you to mount it a couple of inches forward of the rear axle, which
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Richard

There are only a couple replies so far that are worth paying attention to.
The above is one of them.
Two inches ahead of the rear axle CL is the *preferred* position.  DO NOT
weld to the frame.  If the hitch "kit" does not have the proper mounting
brackets, a good welding shop can make them for you.

Max
Slacker Smith - 28 Aug 2006 07:56 GMT
> There are only a couple replies so far that are worth paying attention to.
> The above is one of them.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Max

Thanks, everyone, I've gotten most everything I need here. My issues DIY
installations are exactly why some of you farm this work out. I have never
found a shop I could trust to do it right. Sometimes it works ok, but most
of the time after I go over some repair, tune-up, service, or part install,
someone has taken a shortcut, lost a bolt, didn't tighten the drainplug,
etc. All this to get screwed at $75/hr. Just last week I was checking for a
miss and found one bank of spark plugs that were barely finger tight. This
was a high end tune-up.  I like to use anti sieze on spark plugs, and
silicone on the plug boots. You ever see any commercial shop do this? It
takes 2 minutes and they won't do it. Hey, they get you back quicker, right?

I'll ask around, but really, all a customer can say is "My fiver stays on.
What could be wrong?" So, I figure if I could change out a bumper, install a
fiver tailgate, do my own brakes, I ought to be able to put in a hitch,
properly.

One trick I read about says to use a plumb bob outside of the bed, to
accurately get the center of the axle on each side. You make a mark on the
bed rails. Then you lay a straight edge over the marks and drop the bob down
to the center of the bed. This is supposed to be very accurate in squaring
up the mount.

Ever hear of a shop doing this?

Anyway, I appreciate the input. And to the guys ragging about me killing
somebody, I'd take a look at your own shop installed job<G>

slacker
MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 13:23 GMT
>> There are only a couple replies so far that are worth paying attention
>> to.
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>
> slacker

I hear ya, the quality of work of allot of places suck.

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William Boyd - 28 Aug 2006 14:49 GMT
>  
>
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
>
>  

That is the reason I always have the place that sells me the hitch, the
same RV dealer that sold me the
5er. install it. Benefits of this is they install more hitches than any
one in the state other than Trailer Boss.
Who installed the Gooseneck hitch in my 86 one ton and my 94 GMC.
Reliable folks.
http://www.trailboss.com/
The RV dealer has the most experience and the greatest liability than
any one else that would install their
own product. http://www.johnnybishoprv.com/
You cannot just go to a do every thing welding or mechanical shop and
get specialized work done. First they do
not have time between oil changes or flat tire repairs to do a job that
they more than likely have done three times in the  last
few years. To top it off, they would not know if they installed it right
or not.

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BILL P.

MoParMaN - 28 Aug 2006 15:05 GMT
>>>>There are only a couple replies so far that are worth paying attention
>>>>to.
[quoted text clipped - 64 lines]
> few years. To top it off, they would not know if they installed it right
> or not.

> BILL P.

Your preachin to the quior.  Mine have been installed by either Funtime or
the one up in Plano that does nothing but hitches. I was misquoted earlier
as IN DEALER, I meant my RV dealer, not Dodge.

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Joe Bedford - 28 Aug 2006 04:13 GMT
> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Slacker

Just drill some holes in the bed and use some big screws to get a good
bite.

Don't drill any holes in the frame.

Oh yeah, get someone who has a clue install it for you.

Cheers, Joe
B F Lake - 28 Aug 2006 04:58 GMT
"Slacker Smith" <slacker@aaahawk.com> wrote in message news:2ppIg.2286

> I need to install a fifth wheel in a long-bed pickup. Having never looked at
> how they are mounted, I'm going to take a guess. Maybe 3, 1/2" holes along
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Thanks in advance...........Also any brand/type or is Camping World's Reese
> ok?

This is what I think, even if you are pretty good with tools and have the
equipment.  Some jobs need to be done exactly right.  This is one. It is not
a suitable do it yourself project.  Each truck and hitch has its proper and
sometimes peculiar way for each other. Some require special work-arounds due
to frame spacing etc.  There are shops that do this all the time and know
what they are doing, and it is money well spent.  I would chose a big shop
that does lots and lots of these for all types and knows the proper
work-arounds, not some little place that does one every so often.  You
cannot have any part of the installation with "play" in it either or
something will "work" and then break.  A job for the pros!

Normal placement for the hitch is just forward of the rear axle by about 2".
This ensures the weight is between the axles but is far enough back to let
you turn it while backing.

We like our hitch with the big  bar that snaps across behind the pin and
then is itself pinned in place for extra security.  No way that will let go
or could be improperly secured by mistake.  Some hitches have sort of
grabber claws that people seem to goof up at times and the trailer comes out
and drops in the truck bed for big damage.  We have a Hijacker, but there
are other brands with a bar like that AFAIK.

Some hitches are all one piece and are too heavy for when you want to take
it out and use the truck for hauling plywood or something.  Ours and some
other types comes in two pieces and each piece can be lifted by a regular
human.  We leave the hitch rails in the bed and put other wood in the bed to
level up the "floor" when carrying say, a sheet of gyprock.  Some people
require the bed to be as original when not RVing and it seems there are some
hitches that have this feature too.  Personally, I would not like that, as I
would worry about getting all those bolts etc back in properly.  Any slack
would soon wear away something vital.

Regards,
Barry
RonB - 28 Aug 2006 15:15 GMT
I consider myself fairly handy but I let my RV guy install our hitch in the
last two trucks.  It took me nearly two hours to get the rails out of our
last truck so he could install it in the new one.  Difficult - no.  Just
close work in farily tight quarters.

Ours has two heavy L-brackets (on each side) that attach to the sides of the
frame and extend up to the bottom of the bed.   Holes are drilled in the
floor of the bed to match holes in these L-brackets and each of the bed
rails.  The end of each rail is also fastened with an additional bolt that
passes through the bed rail, a hole in the bed floor and a heavy doubler
below the bed floor.

If you get the rails out of alighment during installation it can be
difficult to remove and reinstall the hitch into the rails.  My RV guy
charged $225 to reinstall the hitch, the electrical plug and the brake
control.  Money well spent because I want all done correctly..

RonB

> This may be a bit juvenile, but I really don't know:
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Slacker
R.J.(Bob) Evans - 28 Aug 2006 16:29 GMT
>I need to install a fifth wheel in a long-bed pickup. Having never looked at
>how they are mounted, I'm going to take a guess. Maybe 3, 1/2" holes along
>each side through the bed? Do they use any kind of re-inforcement strap?
>Simple bolt on? And the pin location...........Maybe right over the axle?
>Anything I should watch for?

If you are going to install your own hitch make sure you inspect the
frame rails before you start drilling.  There's so much crap on the
frames of "modern" trucks that it is hard to find a clean spot to put
the reinforcing brackets on.  Particularly on the left frame rail it
is difficult to find exactly the right spot to mount the braces.  

Installing a hitch is not difficult if you have basic mechanical
aptitude.  You need a sharp drill bit, some ramps and a half a day.  

FWIW, my OPINION is that the pin centre should be approximately 4" in
front of the centre of the rear axle but never directly over the axle
or worse behind it.  The mounting instructions with the hitch will
give you the mfrs opinion as to the ideal location for their hitch.
Just remember that all they did was design the hitch and hold the
liability for manufacturing defects so their advice will not be nearly
as useful as what you will receive here on r.o.rv-t

.

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