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Travel Forum / Travel Types / RV Travel / July 2008The battery drain saga continues
Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing is called. We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining the battery to the tune of .2 amps, 24/7. If there's a meter of some kind or small lightbulb hidden somewhere, we can't find the *&^%$#@ thing. We're at a total loss at this point. > Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing > is called. �We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining the > battery to the tune of .2 amps, 24/7. �If there's a meter of some kind or > small lightbulb hidden somewhere, we can't find the *&^%$#@ thing. �We're at > a total loss at this point. If I understand you correctly, when you pull the #7 fuse, there is no drain....correct? What DOESN'T work when you pull the fuse? That will be where the problem is. If everything works, then just leave the fuse out because you don't need it anyway. IF you decide to go with a battery disconnect, they are cheap and can bought at AutoZone/Advanced Auto for less than $10 and are easy to install. Hank <~~~can't draw .2 amps....not an artist >> Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing >> is called. ?We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >Hank <~~~can't draw .2 amps....not an artist Battery disconnect = computer reset = bad idea fuse 7 disconnect = no brake lights = bad idea when driving I would go with a swith and fuse holder accross a dead fuse 7 BTW - does the seat belt warning buzzer work? I have seen cases where people disable warning dingers by pulling the noisemaker but leaving in the activator coil. brevity snips > BTW - does the seat belt warning buzzer work? I have seen cases where > people disable warning dingers by pulling the noisemaker but leaving > in the activator coil. We don't hear any buzzer and the seats are not stock. They were added at the time of the conversion. The manual is not accurate since the company that did the conversion put different things on different fuses. There are no wires coming up out of the floor and no wires going to either seat. My husband gave up looking. He's going to put a battery switch in it. >> Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing >> is called. �We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining >> the battery to the tune of .2 amps, 24/7. �If there's a meter of some kind >> or small lightbulb hidden somewhere, we can't find the *&^%$#@ thing. >> �We're at a total loss at this point. . > IF you decide to go with a battery disconnect, they are cheap and can > bought at AutoZone/Advanced Auto for less than $10 and are easy to > install. Yep. And a good theft deterrent. Leroy On Jul 18, 2:06�am, "Darlington" <Datling...@thisfake.net> wrote: > Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing > is called. �We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > at > a total loss at this point. If I understand you correctly, when you pull the #7 fuse, there is no drain....correct? What DOESN'T work when you pull the fuse? That will be where the problem is. If everything works, then just leave the fuse out because you don't need it anyway. = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake lights, the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything else on that fuse. All work fine when the fuse is in. When the fuse is pulled they do not work. We can live without the dome and glovebox lights, but not the brake lights. IF you decide to go with a battery disconnect, they are cheap and can bought at AutoZone/Advanced Auto for less than $10 and are easy to install. = We have no other choice but to get a battery disconnect. We've about put all the time into this problem we're willing to do. We've even had an RV tech friend check it out and our retired neighbor who ran an auto repair and transmission shop help... and no one can locate the source of the drain. Hank <~~~can't draw .2 amps....not an artist :-D > = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake > lights, the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything else > on that fuse. All work fine when the fuse is in. When the fuse is pulled > they do not work. We can live without the dome and glovebox lights, but > not the brake lights. Why not install a separate fuse for the brake lights and leave #7 empty? LZ >> = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake >> lights, the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Why not install a separate fuse for the brake lights and leave #7 empty? > LZ Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to another terminal and leave the fuse out of #7, until you finely determine what the drain is.  SignatureBILL P. & DOG >Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along >with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to >another terminal and leave the fuse out of #7, until you finely >determine what the drain is. Nah!! This 200 milliamp drain is consistent with a single light bulb being left on 24/7. So . . . what are the typical culprits? 1. Glove box light; 2. Under-hood light; and 3. Depending on the wiring, perhaps even a basement (or similar) compartment light. Try finding the persistent light via a late night visit to the rig. A lot easier to spot one of these offenders at night. >>Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along >>with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Try finding the persistent light via a late night visit to the rig. A > lot easier to spot one of these offenders at night. If there's a light on somewhere, it's in a place impossible to see at night. The light, if it exists, is totally blocked by something. We tried that already. Found no lights in the dark that we didn't already know about. >>>Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along >>>with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > that already. Found no lights in the dark that we didn't already know > about. Is there a clock in the radio? Stuff like that and power door locks keep a small constant drain. You *could* add a battery cut-off; the downside being your clock and locks won't work. >>>>Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along >>>>with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > small constant drain. You *could* add a battery cut-off; the downside > being your clock and locks won't work. We'd only cut off the battery when we're parked somewhere. Most of the lights and things inside are powered by the two batteries in the back, not the truck battery. We don't care about the clock and the doors lock both manually and automatically. If we had a few hundred bucks to burn we'd take it in to an RV place and let them try and find it. >>>>>Rest assured some one has added something to fuse terminal #7. Along >>>>>with LZ's suggestion, I would switch those known items from #7 to [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > manually and automatically. If we had a few hundred bucks to burn we'd > take it in to an RV place and let them try and find it. Check the radio. The presets are controlled by a power line. Maybe bad. > Check the radio. The presets are controlled by a power line. Maybe bad. He's done that already. The radio isn't on fuse #7. He narrowed the problem to that fuse, then hit a brick wall. He checked everything he could find on fuse #7 and was unable to locate the drain. He's going to put some kind of switch on fuse #7 so he wont have to pull it out when we're parked. He checked everything everyone suggested on this NG that he could find. He failed to locate the short or bad switch or hidden lightbulb or whatever is causing the problem. �He's going to put some kind of > switch on fuse #7 so he wont have to pull it out when we're parked. �He > checked everything everyone suggested on this NG that he could find. He > failed to locate the short or bad switch or hidden lightbulb or whatever is > causing the problem. Personally, I wouldn't put in a switch. What happens if you forget to turn the switch on? I'll tell you, you won't have any brake lights. Seems kinda dangerous to me. I would put in the battery disconnect before I would put in a switch. Anyway, if you don't get frustrated and want to continue trying to fix this, I will help you do a systematical approach via email. It won't be easy or quick. Either way, good luck. Hank hmmm no lights in any compartment but I haven't looked for one under hood tho think not. j\Will check that. >>> = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake >>> lights, the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything else [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > terminal and leave the fuse out of #7, until you finely determine what the > drain is. I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a job for a back-yard mechanic. There's no electrical diagram he can look at which isn't helping us at all. > I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is > set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a > job for a back-yard mechanic. There's no electrical diagram he can look > at which isn't helping us at all. Maybe you could inspect the fuse panel of one in a junk yard? Those doing parts recovery in junkyards sometimes have an amazing knowledge base about their junkers. Ask to look at one and have the brake wires identified. Offer to buy something. LZ >> I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is >> set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >identified. Offer to buy something. >LZ Can do the bypass from in front with those fuse "extenders" that slide in next to the end of an existing fuse. Put a blown fuse in #7 to hold in the load end of the extender. But if you do put in a battery cutoff it should be installed in the "fusible link", not the main battery cable. >>> I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is >>> set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > But if you do put in a battery cutoff it should be installed in the > "fusible link", not the main battery cable. So there should be room for a fuse extender in the fuse box? What is a "fusible link?" I'm passing these posts on to him but since he's not an electrician he may not understand what you're saying. What was supposed to be a "fun" thing is turning into endless hours of frustration and we haven't got to camp one time yet.......... :*( >> But if you do put in a battery cutoff it should be installed in the >> "fusible link", not the main battery cable. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >be a "fun" thing is turning into endless hours of frustration and we haven't >got to camp one time yet.......... :*( Silly advice. If your van even has one - not all vehicles do - it'll be a short piece of small gauge wire that is designed to burn into upon a dead short before the rest of the wiring does. Usually it has a tag attached that says "fusible link". Some small number of vehicles have a separate small wire coming from the (+) battery terminal that goes through a fusible link (or more commonly a circuit breaker or Maxi-fuse) to the fuse panel. Sometimes there is a third wire that goes directly to the alternator. More commonly the main (+) cable goes to a junction box where the various cables fan out. If you're going to go the disconnect route, this is all the battery disconnect that you need http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97853 Every car parts store carries them. There is a different version if your battery has those awful side-mount posts. Simple and clean to install - just lift the (-) wire from the battery, install this thing on the battery post and install the (-) wire on the gadget. Unscrew the green knob to disconnect, screw it tight to reconnect. This is my last post on this subject but before I go I have to say that this has been one of the most unpleasant remote diagnostics cases that I've participated in. You wouldn't do any of the steps that I described and report back on each one. That methodology is vital if remote diagnosis is to work. About all I saw was "We can't". The slam-bang approach rarely works. At this point I'm positive that there is some device on that circuit that is drawing the current. It isn't a high resistance ground, as one with that much current draw does not remain stable. It either burns open or turns into a dead short. I have a few more ideas but at this point I'm done. John -- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net! Tellico Plains, Occupied TN Hell is truth seen too late. -Hobbs > This is my last post on this subject but before I go I have to say that this > has been one of the most unpleasant remote diagnostics cases that I've [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > John John, I understand your frustration, but you have to understand Darlingtons too. The Darlingtons are not auto electrical techs and they are getting advice from others of same. So, chill out a little and give them a break.......ok? When confronted with such a problem, there is a particular method to diagnose it and rule out other things. They are taking a stab in the dark and not using logic as there are too many people offering advice. In my previous post I explained the wiring of the brake system, since they said that when they pull the fuse to the brake lights, the drain disappears. Knowing this, we have isolated the problem to the brake light wiring. Now that makes sense (logical) because most every thing else is shut off by the key but the battery still drains when the key is out. Since the wire for the brakes comes directly from the fuse to the brake light switch, the brake light switch must be supplying power to the brake light wiring as if the brake were depressed. Unless it is shorted out BEFORE it gets to the switch. So, first step is to check the brake light switch to make sure it works correctly. If it is working correctly, we move on from there in a systematical approach. Hank >> At this point I'm positive that there is some device on that circuit that is >> drawing the current. ?It isn't a high resistance ground, as one with that much [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >getting advice from others of same. So, chill out a little and give >them a break.......ok? Between this group, my activity in a couple of others and participation in several mailing lists and http://www.yarchive.net., I answer several hundred requests for help each week. That's in addition to the questions I answer here. Most are novices. I have a bit of experience leading people through remote diagnostic procedures. It only works when the guy or gal on the other end does exactly what I ask them to do and then reports back all his observations. This works 99% of the time. The other 1% who can't or won't follow along? Sorry, can't help 'em. This was a particularly egregious case. Ergo, I'm outta here on this one. Now all I need to do is figure out how to make a few bux on all this activity. John -- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net! Tellico Plains, Occupied TN I love cats ... they taste just like chicken. >>> At this point I'm positive that there is some device on that circuit that is >>> drawing the current. ?It isn't a high resistance ground, as one with that much [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > >John I agree w/ John. I think he has me filtered for some unknown to me reason but his techie advise has, IMHO been pretty much dead on over the 5+ years I have been reading him. I caution folks who may rely on IRV2.COM and/or RV.NET for tech info. They have a couple or more people who post info/suggestions that are just dead wrong and sometimes dangerous if followed. And- When one deigns to correct their faves, the post gets dumped and/or the corrector gets chastised for being 'mean'. One of these days someone is gonna follow this bad advice and get in a world of hurt. I hope they take the appropriate remedy. --- $$$$$$$$$%% Yours truly, Johnny Dollar! I understand your frustration, but you have to understand Darlingtons too. The Darlingtons are not auto electrical techs and they are getting advice from others of same. So, chill out a little and give them a break.......ok? When confronted with such a problem, there is a particular method to diagnose it and rule out other things. They are taking a stab in the dark and not using logic as there are too many people offering advice. In my previous post I explained the wiring of the brake system, since they said that when they pull the fuse to the brake lights, the drain disappears. Knowing this, we have isolated the problem to the brake light wiring. ++ We tried just about everything suggested. The brake lights are not the only thing on that fuse (#7). There's a few courtesy lights and the dome light on it. Now that makes sense (logical) because most every thing else is shut off by the key but the battery still drains when the key is out. Since the wire for the brakes comes directly from the fuse to the brake light switch, the brake light switch must be supplying power to the brake light wiring as if the brake were depressed. Unless it is shorted out BEFORE it gets to the switch. So, first step is to check the brake light switch to make sure it works correctly. If it is working correctly, we move on from there in a systematical approach. ++ OK... thanks. I know he checked what he was able to from the suggestions *here* and decided to put a type of thing attached to #7 so it can't let the "defective whatever" drain the truck battery. I'm so mind boggled with this issue from all the hours working on the van with him and reading the posts here (several times) I forgot who suggested it or what it's called. I can understand your frustration. > Silly advice. If your van even has one - not all vehicles do - it'll be a > short piece of small gauge wire that is designed to burn into upon a dead [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > work. > About all I saw was "We can't". The slam-bang approach rarely works. I'm sorry I didn't report back on each suggestion or if they didn't appear here. These free news servers are not like those provided by ISPs. Several of my posts have not shown up on any of the servers. He said he is going along with the "above suggestion." He knew more about the electrics than I thought he did. We did do just about everything suggested and still didn't find the cause of the drain. > At this point I'm positive that there is some device on that circuit that > is > drawing the current. It isn't a high resistance ground, as one with that > much > current draw does not remain stable. It either burns open or turns into a > dead short. I have a few more ideas but at this point I'm done. Thanks........... you've been real helpful. >> I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is >> set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a job [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Offer to buy something. > LZ LZ...I'll pass on your suggestion to him. Moving the brake wires to another fuse may be the answer, and remove #7 altogether. Then wait and see if that causes yet another problem elsewhere. It may not. I can see now the guy lied to us when he said the battery was bad. The old battery wasn't bad. He knew about this short and most likely couldn't find it either. > LZ...I'll pass on your suggestion to him. Moving the brake wires to another > fuse may be the answer, and remove #7 altogether. �Then wait and see if that > causes yet another problem elsewhere. �It may not. I can see now the guy > lied to us when he said the battery was bad. The old battery wasn't bad. �He > knew about this short and most likely couldn't find it either. In my earlier post, I didn't realize that the brake lights were on #7 because I didn't read the previous posts. Moving the wires to another fuse probably won't help matters since the drain is more than likely in the wiring that runs AFTER the fuse block. Since the drain is in the Brake light system, that wire should only serve the brake lights and nothing else. So, if I am correct, that is the system in which to start looking. The brake light wire should run from the fuse to the brake light switch that is located down by the brake peddle, unless you have a "pressure switch" which will be located in a brake line or close to the master cylinder. Disconnect that switch and see if that remedies the problem. If so, you can trace the wires from there. It could also be the brake light switch not opening ( not turning the brake lights off ) the circuit completely. Check the switch after you disconnect it to see if there is ANY continuity whatsoever. If there is continuity in both the open and closed (on and off respectively) replace the switch. Check the wire around the brake peddle, many times the fall and are rubbed or caught in the peddle mechanism, creating a short. Since brake lights will work whether the key is on or not, that probably is the drain problem when the key is in the off position. Also, if you have wiring that is going to a plug for a trailer, or brake controller, make sure they are clean and correctly attached. Hank In my earlier post, I didn't realize that the brake lights were on #7 because I didn't read the previous posts. Moving the wires to another fuse probably won't help matters since the drain is more than likely in the wiring that runs AFTER the fuse block. Since the drain is in the Brake light system, that wire should only serve the brake lights and nothing else. So, if I am correct, that is the system in which to start looking. The brake light wire should run from the fuse to the brake light switch that is located down by the brake peddle, unless you have a "pressure switch" which will be located in a brake line or close to the master cylinder. Disconnect that switch and see if that remedies the problem. + OK, I just told him what you said and that wasn't checked. We can do that as soon as possible before he puts the switch in to disconnect #7 when the van's shut off. If so, you can trace the wires from there. It could also be the brake light switch not opening ( not turning the brake lights off ) the circuit completely. Check the switch after you disconnect it to see if there is ANY continuity whatsoever. If there is continuity in both the open and closed (on and off respectively) replace the switch. Check the wire around the brake peddle, many times the fall and are rubbed or caught in the peddle mechanism, creating a short. + Good deal. Since brake lights will work whether the key is on or not, that probably is the drain problem when the key is in the off position. Also, if you have wiring that is going to a plug for a trailer, or brake controller, make sure they are clean and correctly attached. + Will do Hank. Thanks........ I'll let you know what we find when we check it. Hopefully tomorrow. It's ungodly hot here in middle Tennessee so us older folks can't always get out there and do what we want to do. :) Hank When I used to w**k for a living, we used a system called half-splitting. It sometimes took a while, but eventually we would find the problem. This was in some systems that contained miles & miles of wire & coax & we couldn't have functioned without some type of system for troubleshooting. Some half-splitting involved days of manhole detective work, but we always knew we'd prevail. YMMV. >>> I can't see how the wires can be reached under the fuse panel which is >>> set in the dashboard. From what I saw looking under there, it's not a job [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > lied to us when he said the battery was bad. The old battery wasn't bad. He > knew about this short and most likely couldn't find it either. If it is the brake light switch then disconnecting it at the switch should make it go away, or else something in the braking mechanism as rubbed through some of the wiring to cause a high resistance short which is the drain. This may require a mirror because there is not much room under the steering column to get your body under the dash to watch the brake linkage AND have someone or yourself operate the brakes. SignatureWes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. spam@www.spam.com is a garbage address. > If it is the brake light switch then disconnecting it at the switch > should make it go away, or else something in the braking mechanism as [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > steering column to get your body under the dash to watch the brake > linkage AND have someone or yourself operate the brakes. That's where I come into the act. :-)) >> = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake lights, >> the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything else on that [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Why not install a separate fuse for the brake lights and leave #7 empty? > LZ That doesn't look like it would be a minor job. The fuses are in a recession in the dashboard with no space for another fuse. I don't know if my husband can reach the wires from underneath to do that without removing a lot of stuff "under the hood." >>> = Several things don't work when #7 is pulled including the brake >>> lights, the dome light and glove box light. We can't find anything [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > if my husband can reach the wires from underneath to do that without > removing a lot of stuff "under the hood." If you can identify the brake wire coming in and coming out, just splice in a section of wire with an in-line fuse. Every auto parts store will have an in-line fuse holder you can use. LZ > If you can identify the brake wire coming in and coming out, just splice > in a section of wire with an in-line fuse. Every auto parts store will > have an in-line fuse holder you can use. > LZ I don't know how that can be done as you can't see the wires under the dashboard coming into the fusebox. >> If you can identify the brake wire coming in and coming out, just splice >> in a section of wire with an in-line fuse. Every auto parts store will [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > I don't know how that can be done as you can't see the wires under the > dashboard coming into the fusebox. Sometimes the dash board has to be pulled to work on things under it. SignatureWes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. spam@www.spam.com is a garbage address. >Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing >is called. We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining the >battery to the tune of .2 amps, 24/7. If there's a meter of some kind or >small lightbulb hidden somewhere, we can't find the *&^%$#@ thing. We're at >a total loss at this point. Rather than install a switch, use the one that's built in. There are 2 kinds of power supplied to the fuse panel: 1) Hot all the time (such as Fuse #7) and 2) Hot with the Ignition key in ACC/ON (Radio/Heater/etc) Move the hot side of Fuse #7 to be fed by the 2) feed circuit. It may be as simple as moving/adding a wire on the back of the fuse panel. On Dodge Vans it's usually pretty easy to drop the fuse panel down. Saves installing a one of a kind switch. PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit >PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - >sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit Really! >>PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - >>sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit > > Really! I have not heard anyone mention the possibility of a high resistance short. A barely exposed wire or connector or corroded wire could be causing it. This maybe inside wiring harness and you cannot see it. This may take a really experience electrician to find. SignatureWes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. spam@www.spam.com is a garbage address. >>>PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - >>>sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >This may take a really experience electrician to find. You betcha. A high resistance short to ground is _the_ most difficult electrical problem to find and why I started to type it and then deleted. Seems D's DH is done with it. So, obiviate the problem rather than repair it. But if he's not really done: Yank on wires - see if you can make it a low resistance short then the problem becomes more obvious. check switches (brake lights, glovebox, dome light, etc.) for corrosion. Otherwise it's like NJ described, checking individual wire runs to find it. Or disclose the high resistance short by isolating circuits and send high voltage down the run and see where the smoke leaks out. Most times in these cases, folks wind up running new wire. I had a hunch that it could be the turn signal switch but that's only going to be live when the brake pedal is pushed, on the other hand I've seen them create some very wierd problems. >>>>PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - >>>>sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > deleted. Seems D's DH is done with it. So, obiviate the problem > rather than repair it. He doesn't know HOW to repair it. He's not an electrician and the manual doesn't cover the electrics in any meaningful way. > But if he's not really done: > > Yank on wires - see if you can make it a low resistance short then the > problem becomes more obvious. What wires should he yank on? Where are they located? > check switches (brake lights, glovebox, dome light, etc.) for > corrosion. Where are these switches? There are very few things on fuse #7. > Otherwise it's like NJ described, checking individual wire runs to > find it. Or disclose the high resistance short by isolating circuits > and send high voltage down the run and see where the smoke leaks out. How is this done? > Most times in these cases, folks wind up running new wire. We would need to run new wire from fuse #7 to all the things on that fuse? How would all these wires be reached? Who does this kind of work and what would it cost? > I had a hunch that it could be the turn signal switch but that's only > going to be live when the brake pedal is pushed, on the other hand > I've seen them create some very wierd problems. >>>PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - >>>sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > This may take a really experience electrician to find. Which is pretty much what our friend who worked on RVs for a living said. >>Rather than use a bulb we used the Amp or omm meter or whatever that thing >>is called. We know it's on fuse #7. We still can't find what's draining [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > and > 2) Hot with the Ignition key in ACC/ON (Radio/Heater/etc) Apparently fuse #7 is hot all the time. > Move the hot side of Fuse #7 to be fed by the 2) feed circuit. > > It may be as simple as moving/adding a wire on the back of the fuse > panel. On Dodge Vans it's usually pretty easy to drop the fuse panel > down. I'll forward him this message and see if he wants to try something like that. This is the first fuse panel I've ever seen set into a dashboard. There may be a reason for what's on #7 to be there, and more problems created if they're moved to another fuse. > Saves installing a one of a kind switch. > > PS are you sure the glovebox light goes out when you close the door? - > sorry couldn't help myself - don't hit I think at this point, after spending so many hours in the damn heat and humidity out there without success, he's ready to do the easiest and fastest thing. How about getting a clamp on ampmeter such as http://www.calright.com/pd_1129.aspx a little pricey but a handy tool to have. Then you could poke around your wiring harnesses and see which line is carrying the load. -------------- a b 2 5 7 ptd n e t > How about getting a clamp on ampmeter such as > > http://www.calright.com/pd_1129.aspx > > a little pricey but a handy tool to have. Then you could poke around > your wiring harnesses and see which line is carrying the load. Or you could get this one for 18 bucks. <g> A big problem with this type of ampmeter is that it's hard to read if clampin over a wire that's in a tight spot. A better choice is a clamp-on that connects to your multimeter over a pair of leads. I've got an old radioshack meter with such an attachment. >> How about getting a clamp on ampmeter such as >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >over a pair of leads. I've got an old radioshack meter >with such an attachment. Does it do DC? The one for $128 does AC and DC. Most of the old clamp on's are transformers with a split core that clamps over the wires. They will read AC but not DC current flow. Ditto the cheap units. I have an old one that was $$$ and a cheap one that was less than $20 at Harbor freight. The new good one's use a Hall effect sensor or something similar to sense the current flow then clean it up and feed it to the A/D converter in the meter. >Does it do DC? The one for $128 does AC and DC. I have one that works great, but I do not know the cost. It was free to me. The tow truck driver left it hanging on a battery cable. My wife could not remember the name of the tow company. We called AAA back and they were supposed to contact them. We still have it. It reads anywhere from a fraction of an amp up to several amps (the ranges I have used). It reads AC and DC. It has a split core that clamps around the wire. I would look at the brand and model number, but it is not here right now. Elliot Richmond Itinerant astronomy teacher >>Does it do DC? The one for $128 does AC and DC. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >Elliot Richmond >Itinerant astronomy teacher Can't beat the price. ;-) What I was pointing out was that all things are not equal in meters. I'm glad you got a good one. |
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