Northeast from Toronto. Suggestions?
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WPB - 06 Sep 2005 12:52 GMT Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice.
I'm leaving next week for two and a half weeks vacation. I'm driving from Toronto northeast. This will mean Kingston (Thousand Islands) and then into Quebec (Quebec City, of course). Maybe some whale watching? Then across the border into New Brunswick and, hopefully, to Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. Then back.
I know that sounds a bit ambitious for, say, 18-20 days. Does anyone have any favourite travel stories and/or suggestions for that route? I like small towns, scenic drives, maybe a winery--and avoiding the tourist traps.
I do have a guide book for eastern Canada, but it just scratches the surface really. The best sort of trip is the one where you take the advice of people who have been there before and have good suggestions.
Restaurants? Hotels? Must-see spots?
Any and all advice is gratefully received.
Many thanks.
David in Toronto
Larry Van Wormer - 06 Sep 2005 14:46 GMT > Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > surface really. The best sort of trip is the one where you take the advice > of people who have been there before and have good suggestions. In Kingston, a good place to stay is "A Stone's Throw" B&B, very conveniently located to the attractions, in a nice part of Kingston. Very pleasant place to stay! For restaurants in Kingston, I can recommend "Le Chien Noir" bistro, very good food.
An area near Kingston that's worth a visit is Prince Edward County. Some good wineries, pretty scenery, etc.
I was recently in Nova Scotia. If you get there, I can highly recommend the Charlotte Lane restaurant in Shelburne and the Two Chefs restaurant (East Indian food, very good!) in Bridgewater. My favorite towns were Annapolis Royal and Peggy's Cove (Peggy's Cove is indeed a major tourist trap, but I enjoyed the visit even so.)
(No interest in any of the afore-mentioned businesses, etc, except as a very satisfied customer...)
Larry Van Wormer
W.R - 06 Sep 2005 15:59 GMT Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved. My family needed instructions and were unable to get any of the francophones to speak english to us.
Once in the Maritimes the sites that I recall are: - Bay of Fundy - Magnetic Hill
While in Ontario - a cruise among the thousand islands leaving from Kingston is nice. I have never stopped to see the mansion in the middle of the cruise however.
If you are in too old architecture their is a beautiful old school built in the 1800's between Brockville and Prescott right along the St. Lawrence.
You may actually want to get off the 401 and travel a portion on I believe Hwy #2... It runs along the banks of the St. Lawrence.
Hope that helps.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:26 GMT Just a small point - rural Quebec still has many unilingually French areas so it is not unwillingness but inability that can lead to English communication. My experience has been (as a lousy French speaker) that the slightest effort to at least start with phrasebook French in rural Quebec will lead to a very amicable and reciprocal effort by Quebecois to communicate en anglais. With good will on both sides and respect by English-speaking visitors, the experience can be fine and sometimes good for a few laughs later on.
bob - 26 Sep 2005 18:07 GMT > Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure > years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved. My family > needed instructions and were unable to get any of the francophones to speak > english to us. I was driving through Arkansas, and couldn't get any of the locals to speak French to me.
sechumlib - 26 Sep 2005 20:02 GMT >>Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure >>years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved. My family [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I was driving through Arkansas, and couldn't get any of the locals to speak > French to me. Well, we've had MUCH better luck in Quebec than "bob". It helps if you know at least enough French to convince the Quebecois that you're trying.
sechumlib - 26 Sep 2005 20:04 GMT >>> Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure >>> years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved. My family [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Well, we've had MUCH better luck in Quebec than "bob". It helps if you > know at least enough French to convince the Quebecois that you're trying. Sorry, "bob". I unjustly accused you; it was "W.R." that apparently had the problem.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:21 GMT Hi David,
I just wrote and then lost a post of more than a 1000 words based on my knowledge and considerable envy of your upcoming excursion. When this happens the wind leaves one's sails but I may get my energy back and post again in more detail for now, a precis of what I said all of which was about east of Quebec.
Take the south shore and stay off Route 20 east of Quebec and you'll see many a quaint Quebec village. La Pocatiere is the most advanced in arts and cafes etc. but farther along the St, Lawrence if you go what I call the Matapedia route to the Maritimes, you come upon Bic a place where legend says, the great Manitou finished making the world and, because he had a lot of beauty left over, dumped it all there. You can go either south or east at Riviere du Loup, both are pretty spectacular, and then come back the other way. I haven't a great deal to say about new Brunswick, cause I know it less well. PEI and Nova Scotia are my old turf and the highlights are -
PEI - don't miss the village of Victoria where you can get lobster that is in season, pretty Montague and steamed mussels at the Sea Treat in Charlottetown. Staying at the Inns on Great George in Ch'town is a nice "urban" option. Take the very long new bridge going to PEI but head for NS by ferry from Wood islands. Then you'll need 3 days for Cape Breton, 1 for Halifax and 2 to travel around the South Shore of NS whose highlights other than Peggy's Cove, Shelburne and Bridgewater, include world heritage site, Lunenburg (home of the original Bluenose schooner). Two other villages presenting quite a contrats are Prospect (a spur off the road to Peggy's Cove) a very unspoiled outport with very little service, and Chester where huge summer homes and the very to Tancook Island are. If you like sauerkraut, Tancook is an epicenter!
Out on Digby Neck in southwesternmost NS are whale watching. En route past Dartmouth you'll go through the "world's longest village" Metaghan in the midst of one of NS's Acadian heartlands (the others are Cheticamp and Isle madame in Cape Breton).
Let me loop back to Cape Breton - when you cross the causeway there, take route 19 for a less beaten path and some nice old fashioned villages, on to the Margaree valley and around the Cabot Trail. Coming back from Cape Breton to halifax, choose the eastern shore, route 7 which includes Sherbrooke (which reminds me - get a Stan Rogers tape or CD, preferably "Fogarty's Cove" to accompany you throughout NS.
When leaving western NS, you can see the world's highest tides at Truro and amble out through Parrsboro and up to Springhill of Mining disaster and Anne Murray fame.
I'll add more later.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:29 GMT Oops - I just spotted a couple of typos that could confuse - it's a ferry not a "very" to Tancook and Metaghan is around the side of Yarmouth not Dartmouth!
WPB - 06 Sep 2005 20:01 GMT Many, many thanks, Skookum, for your interesting and comprehensive note. Thanks, too, to W.R. for posting suggestions.
First of all, I'm sorry about losing all that work. It's always a heart breaker to have to do things all over again.
As for the trip, I should manage fine because my French is reasonably good. I'm not worried about the language barrier.
Reading all these suggestions gets me quite excited about the trip. I think most people take their own country for granted and I have to confess that I've had other trips that I've been more enthusiastic about: climbing Mayan pyramids in Guatemala, exploring rural Japan, taking the train to Venice, etc., etc. And now . . . . New Brunswick.
Well, I was thinking it all might seem a bit ordinary, but that's not fair at all. And reading the enthusiastic tone in your note convinces me that I'll have a wonderful time. I'm fairly well travelled, but have never been east of Quebec City in Canada. My first time out east.
So thanks again for your generous suggestions.
David
ThomJeff - 06 Sep 2005 23:07 GMT > Many, many thanks, Skookum, for your interesting and comprehensive note. > Thanks, too, to W.R. for posting suggestions. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > David You didn't mention Ottawa, Mont Tremblant or Montreal amongst your stops: Since these are of course top destinations, I assume you to be familiar with all 3 and ready to head east.
The one suggestion I might add to your Quebec east tour is not to miss the Charlevoix region. It's about and hour or two northeast of Quebec City and has a terrific shoreline drive and many a fine small village with small B&Bs with oft-fantastic views.
I, too, am envious of such a trip--Have fun!
Thom
WPB - 07 Sep 2005 13:42 GMT I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority. Montreal--I don't know. I'm not a big fan. I've visited a number of times and it's okay, but I find it a bit depressing with all those "A louer" signs in the windows. I'll give it a pass. Mont Tremblant I don't know at all.
The Charlevoix region sounds wonderful, though. I'll add that to my itinerary. Thanks!
David ______________________________________________________________
> You didn't mention Ottawa, Mont Tremblant or > Montreal amongst your stops: Since these are of [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Thom ThomJeff - 07 Sep 2005 16:42 GMT > I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority. > Montreal--I don't know. I'm not a big fan. I've visited a number of times > and it's okay, but I find it a bit depressing with all those "A louer" > signs in the windows. The economy seems to be booming in Montreal lately--has it been a while since you were there?
> I'll give it a pass. Mont Tremblant I don't know at > all. A world-class year-round resort based on a European-style ski village up in the Laurentians, about an hour and a half northwest of Montreal.
Worth seeing, though probably out of your way.
Thom
> The Charlevoix region sounds wonderful, though. I'll add that to my > itinerary. Thanks! [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >> >>Thom WPB - 08 Sep 2005 15:39 GMT It's true that I haven't been to Montreal since the early 1990s. I don't know. It just left me cold. The food was good, though. I remember:
- A great deli. What's the name? Ben's?
- A breakfast place called Beauty's with wonderful "Beauty-wiches" (bagels with smoked salmon, cream cheese, tomato and onion)
- The best bagels in the world from . . . I forget the name of the place
In any event, many thanks to one and all for your suggestions. I leave tomorrow. First stop: the Thousand Islands. After that? Who knows? But everyone's travel tips will come in *very* handy.
Much appreciated!
David ____________________________________________________________
>> I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority. >> Montreal--I don't know. I'm not a big fan. I've visited a number of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The economy seems to be booming in Montreal > lately--has it been a while since you were there? Skookum - 08 Sep 2005 15:58 GMT On smoked meat - Ben's is way past its heyday. Go for Schwartz's at 3895 St.Laurent.
Dave Smith - 08 Sep 2005 20:33 GMT > It's true that I haven't been to Montreal since the early 1990s. I don't > know. It just left me cold. The food was good, though. I remember: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > - The best bagels in the world from . . . I forget the name of the place Montreal is a great city to visit. I go there several times a year to visit my son and we always have a great time. Not only is there a lot to do and so many good restaurants, it is relatively inexpensive. I can always find a good meal in a nice restaurant for much less than I would pay in other cities.
Richard Bornstein - 08 Sep 2005 06:47 GMT IMHO, if you are going to Nova scotia, try not to miss Cabot Trail in Cape Breton island. It is one of the most beautiful drives in Canada
> Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice. > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > David in Toronto Skookum - 08 Sep 2005 16:03 GMT Last thoughts before you depart...
- There are great Farmers markets in both Charlottetown and Halifax on Saturday mornings. Charlottetown's is smaller more homey and features an old pal of mine, Kim Dormaar serving up great smoked salmon on bagels. Say "hi" from Norman Dale if you happen to get there. Halifax's is in a rambling space within an old brewery on Lower Water Street. - And speaking of smoked salmon, along the eastern Shore Route 7 east of Halifax, at a small place called Tangier is Krauch's smoked salmon, very fine stuff indeed featured many years ago by Craig Claibourne in the NY Times.
WPB - 27 Sep 2005 18:17 GMT Hello, all: Just a brief word to say that I returned from my two week vacation out east last Friday. I very much enjoyed myself and appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions.
Unfortunately, Skookum, I was in Charlottetown on a Saturday, but too late for the market so I didn't get to see your friend.
In short, I went to Belleville, Ganonoque (Thousand Islands tour), Quebec City (eight million tourists, but great), Fredericton (New Brunswick was depressing frankly), Sunnyside PEI (not all that great), throughout western PEI (really, really nice), Charlottetown (very enjoyable). Then on to Nova Scotia. Halifax was good, but I caught the remnants of tropical storm Ophelia. I loved the harbour front (why can't Toronto have a great harbour front like that?) and enjoyed the maritime museum for the Titanic artifacts. I also enjoyed a tour of the Alexander Keith's brewery and visited one of the three Titanic graveyards.
I then went to Digby and had a very good time there. Nice town and I went on a whale watching excursion (www.ppww.ca) which was excellent. Took a ferry back to New Brunswick and hightailed it to the Maine border and came back through New England (Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and the last night was spent in Lake Placid, NY).
All in all a very good trip. I was surprised how expensive things were, though. No cheap rates for hotels or meals. Ah, well. I wish, too, that I'd had more time. I would have *loved* to have seen the Cabot Trail. No time. Next time!
So thanks again to everyone for their comments.
David ________________________________________________________
> Last thoughts before you depart... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > salmon, very fine stuff indeed featured many years ago by Craig > Claibourne in the NY Times.
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