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Travel Forum / Destinations / USA and Canada / September 2005



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Northeast from Toronto.  Suggestions?

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WPB - 06 Sep 2005 12:52 GMT
Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice.

I'm leaving next week for two and a half weeks vacation.  I'm driving from
Toronto northeast.  This will mean Kingston (Thousand Islands) and then
into Quebec (Quebec City, of course).  Maybe some whale watching?  Then
across the border into New Brunswick and, hopefully, to Nova Scotia and
Prince Edward Island.  Then back.

I know that sounds a bit ambitious for, say, 18-20 days.  Does anyone have
any favourite travel stories and/or suggestions for that route?  I like
small towns, scenic drives, maybe a winery--and avoiding the tourist traps.

I do have a guide book for eastern Canada, but it just scratches the
surface really.  The best sort of trip is the one where you take the advice
of people who have been there before and have good suggestions.

Restaurants?  Hotels?  Must-see spots?

Any and all advice is gratefully received.

Many thanks.

David in Toronto
Larry Van Wormer - 06 Sep 2005 14:46 GMT
> Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> surface really.  The best sort of trip is the one where you take the advice
> of people who have been there before and have good suggestions.

In Kingston, a good place to stay is "A Stone's Throw" B&B, very
conveniently located to the attractions, in a nice part of Kingston.
Very pleasant place to stay! For restaurants in Kingston, I can
recommend "Le Chien Noir" bistro, very good food.

An area near Kingston that's worth a visit is Prince Edward County. Some
good wineries, pretty scenery, etc.

I was recently in Nova Scotia. If you get there, I can highly recommend
the Charlotte Lane restaurant in Shelburne and the Two Chefs restaurant
(East Indian food, very good!) in Bridgewater. My favorite towns were
Annapolis Royal and Peggy's Cove (Peggy's Cove is indeed a major tourist
trap, but I enjoyed the visit even so.)

(No interest in any of the afore-mentioned businesses, etc, except as a
very satisfied customer...)

Larry Van Wormer
W.R - 06 Sep 2005 15:59 GMT
Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure
years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved.  My family
needed instructions and were unable to get any of the francophones to speak
english to us.

Once in the Maritimes the sites that I recall are:
- Bay of Fundy
- Magnetic Hill

While in Ontario - a cruise among the thousand islands
leaving from Kingston is nice.  I have never stopped to
see the mansion in the middle of the cruise however.

If you are in too old architecture their is a beautiful old
school built in the 1800's between Brockville and
Prescott right along the St. Lawrence.

You may actually want to get off the 401 and travel a portion on I believe
Hwy #2... It runs along the banks
of the St. Lawrence.

Hope that helps.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:26 GMT
Just a small point - rural Quebec still has many unilingually French
areas so it is not unwillingness but inability that can lead to English
communication. My experience has been (as a lousy French speaker) that
the slightest effort to at least start with phrasebook French in rural
Quebec will lead to a very amicable and reciprocal effort by Quebecois
to communicate en anglais. With good will on both sides and respect by
English-speaking visitors, the experience can be fine and sometimes
good for a few laughs later on.
bob - 26 Sep 2005 18:07 GMT
> Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure
> years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved.  My family
> needed instructions and were unable to get any of the francophones to speak
> english to us.

I was driving through Arkansas, and couldn't get any of the locals to speak
French to me.
sechumlib - 26 Sep 2005 20:02 GMT
>>Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure
>>years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved.  My family
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> I was driving through Arkansas, and couldn't get any of the locals to speak
> French to me.

Well, we've had MUCH better luck in Quebec than "bob". It helps if you
know at least enough French to convince the Quebecois that you're trying.
sechumlib - 26 Sep 2005 20:04 GMT
>>> Well lets see, driving through Quebec was not a pleasure
>>> years ago and unfortunately, I don't know if it has improved.  My family
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Well, we've had MUCH better luck in Quebec than "bob". It helps if you
> know at least enough French to convince the Quebecois that you're trying.

Sorry, "bob". I unjustly accused you; it was "W.R." that apparently had
the problem.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:21 GMT
Hi David,

I just wrote and then lost a post of more than a 1000 words based on my
knowledge and considerable envy of your upcoming excursion. When this
happens the wind leaves one's sails but I may get my energy back and
post again in more detail for now, a precis of what I said all of which
was about east of Quebec.

Take the south shore and stay off Route 20 east of Quebec and you'll
see many a quaint Quebec village. La Pocatiere is the most advanced in
arts and cafes etc. but farther along the St, Lawrence if you go what I
call the Matapedia route to the Maritimes, you come upon Bic a place
where legend says, the great Manitou finished making the world and,
because he had a lot of beauty left over, dumped it all there. You can
go either south or east at Riviere du Loup, both are pretty
spectacular, and then come back the other way. I haven't a great deal
to say about new Brunswick, cause I know it less well. PEI and Nova
Scotia are my old turf and the highlights are -

PEI - don't miss the village of Victoria where you can get lobster that
is in season, pretty Montague and steamed mussels at the Sea Treat in
Charlottetown. Staying at the Inns on Great George in Ch'town is a nice
"urban" option. Take the very long new bridge going to PEI but head for
NS by ferry from Wood islands. Then you'll need 3 days for Cape Breton,
1 for Halifax and 2 to travel around the South Shore of NS whose
highlights other than Peggy's Cove, Shelburne and Bridgewater, include
world heritage site, Lunenburg (home of the original Bluenose
schooner). Two other villages presenting quite a contrats are Prospect
(a spur off the road to Peggy's Cove) a very unspoiled outport with
very little service, and Chester where huge summer homes and the very
to Tancook Island are. If you like sauerkraut, Tancook is an epicenter!

Out on Digby Neck in southwesternmost NS are whale watching. En route
past Dartmouth you'll go through the "world's longest village" Metaghan
in the midst of one of NS's Acadian heartlands (the others are
Cheticamp and Isle madame in Cape Breton).

Let me loop back to Cape Breton - when you cross the causeway there,
take route 19 for a less beaten path and some nice old fashioned
villages, on to the Margaree valley and around the Cabot Trail. Coming
back from Cape Breton to halifax, choose the eastern shore, route 7
which includes Sherbrooke (which reminds me - get a Stan Rogers tape or
CD, preferably "Fogarty's Cove" to accompany you throughout NS.

When leaving western NS, you can see the world's highest tides at Truro
and amble out through Parrsboro and up to Springhill of Mining disaster
and Anne Murray fame.

I'll add more later.
Skookum - 06 Sep 2005 19:29 GMT
Oops - I just spotted a couple of typos that could confuse - it's a
ferry not a "very" to Tancook and Metaghan is around the side of
Yarmouth not Dartmouth!
WPB - 06 Sep 2005 20:01 GMT
Many, many thanks, Skookum, for your interesting and comprehensive note.  
Thanks, too, to W.R. for posting suggestions.

First of all, I'm sorry about losing all that work.  It's always a heart
breaker to have to do things all over again.

As for the trip, I should manage fine because my French is reasonably good.  
I'm not worried about the language barrier.

Reading all these suggestions gets me quite excited about the trip.  I
think most people take their own country for granted and I have to confess
that I've had other trips that I've been more enthusiastic about: climbing
Mayan pyramids in Guatemala, exploring rural Japan, taking the train to
Venice, etc., etc.  And now . . . . New Brunswick.

Well, I was thinking it all might seem a bit ordinary, but that's not fair
at all.  And reading the enthusiastic tone in your note convinces me that
I'll have a wonderful time.  I'm fairly well travelled, but have never been
east of Quebec City in Canada.  My first time out east.

So thanks again for your generous suggestions.

David
ThomJeff - 06 Sep 2005 23:07 GMT
> Many, many thanks, Skookum, for your interesting and comprehensive note.  
> Thanks, too, to W.R. for posting suggestions.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> David

You didn't mention Ottawa, Mont Tremblant or
Montreal amongst your stops: Since these are of
course top destinations, I assume you to be
familiar with all 3 and ready to head east.

The one suggestion I might add to your Quebec
east tour is not to miss the Charlevoix region.
It's about and hour or two northeast of Quebec
City and has a terrific shoreline drive and many
a fine small village with small B&Bs with
oft-fantastic views.

I, too, am envious of such a trip--Have fun!

Thom
WPB - 07 Sep 2005 13:42 GMT
I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority.  
Montreal--I don't know.  I'm not a big fan.  I've visited a number of times
and it's okay, but I find it a bit depressing with all those "A louer"
signs in the windows.  I'll give it a pass.  Mont Tremblant I don't know at
all.

The Charlevoix region sounds wonderful, though.  I'll add that to my
itinerary.  Thanks!

David
______________________________________________________________

> You didn't mention Ottawa, Mont Tremblant or
> Montreal amongst your stops: Since these are of
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Thom
ThomJeff - 07 Sep 2005 16:42 GMT
> I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority.  
> Montreal--I don't know.  I'm not a big fan.  I've visited a number of times
> and it's okay, but I find it a bit depressing with all those "A louer"
> signs in the windows.  

The economy seems to be booming in Montreal
lately--has it been a while since you were there?

> I'll give it a pass.  Mont Tremblant I don't know at
> all.

A world-class year-round resort based on a
European-style ski village up in the
Laurentians, about an hour and a half northwest
of Montreal.

Worth seeing, though probably out of your way.

Thom

> The Charlevoix region sounds wonderful, though.  I'll add that to my
> itinerary.  Thanks!
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>
>>Thom
WPB - 08 Sep 2005 15:39 GMT
It's true that I haven't been to Montreal since the early 1990s.  I don't
know.  It just left me cold.  The food was good, though.  I remember:

-  A great deli.  What's the name?  Ben's?

-  A breakfast place called Beauty's with wonderful "Beauty-wiches" (bagels
with smoked salmon, cream cheese, tomato and onion)

-  The best bagels in the world from . . . I forget the name of the place

In any event, many thanks to one and all for your suggestions.  I leave
tomorrow.  First stop: the Thousand Islands.  After that?  Who knows?  But
everyone's travel tips will come in *very* handy.

Much appreciated!

David
____________________________________________________________

>> I like Ottawa, but lived there for two years so it's not a priority.
>> Montreal--I don't know.  I'm not a big fan.  I've visited a number of
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> The economy seems to be booming in Montreal
> lately--has it been a while since you were there?
Skookum - 08 Sep 2005 15:58 GMT
On smoked meat - Ben's is way past its heyday. Go for Schwartz's at
3895 St.Laurent.
Dave Smith - 08 Sep 2005 20:33 GMT
> It's true that I haven't been to Montreal since the early 1990s.  I don't
> know.  It just left me cold.  The food was good, though.  I remember:
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> -  The best bagels in the world from . . . I forget the name of the place

Montreal is a great city to visit. I go there several times a year to visit my
son and we always have a great time. Not only is there a  lot to do and so many
good restaurants, it is relatively inexpensive.  I can always find a good meal
in a nice restaurant for much less than I would pay in other cities.
Richard Bornstein - 08 Sep 2005 06:47 GMT
IMHO, if you are going to Nova scotia, try not to miss Cabot Trail in Cape
Breton island.  It is one of the most beautiful drives in Canada

> Hello, all: Just a quick note seeking advice.
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> David in Toronto
Skookum - 08 Sep 2005 16:03 GMT
Last thoughts before you depart...

- There are great Farmers markets in both Charlottetown and Halifax on
Saturday mornings. Charlottetown's is smaller more homey and features
an old pal of mine, Kim Dormaar serving up great smoked salmon on
bagels. Say "hi" from Norman Dale if you happen to get there. Halifax's
is in a rambling space within an old brewery on Lower Water Street.
- And speaking of smoked salmon, along the eastern Shore Route 7 east
of Halifax, at a small place called Tangier is Krauch's smoked salmon,
very fine stuff indeed featured many years ago by Craig Claibourne in
the NY Times.
WPB - 27 Sep 2005 18:17 GMT
Hello, all: Just a brief word to say that I returned from my two week
vacation out east last Friday.  I very much enjoyed myself and
appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions.

Unfortunately, Skookum, I was in Charlottetown on a Saturday, but too
late for the market so I didn't get to see your friend.

In short, I went to Belleville, Ganonoque (Thousand Islands tour),
Quebec City (eight million tourists, but great), Fredericton (New
Brunswick was depressing frankly), Sunnyside PEI (not all that great),
throughout western PEI (really, really nice), Charlottetown (very
enjoyable).  Then on to Nova Scotia.  Halifax was good, but I caught the
remnants of tropical storm Ophelia.  I loved the harbour front (why
can't Toronto have a great harbour front like that?) and enjoyed the
maritime museum for the Titanic artifacts.  I also enjoyed a tour of the
Alexander Keith's brewery and visited one of the three Titanic
graveyards.

I then went to Digby and had a very good time there.  Nice town and I
went on a whale watching excursion (www.ppww.ca) which was excellent.
Took a ferry back to New Brunswick and hightailed it to the Maine border
and came back through New England (Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and the
last night was spent in Lake Placid, NY).

All in all a very good trip.  I was surprised how expensive things were,
though.  No cheap rates for hotels or meals.  Ah, well.  I wish, too,
that I'd had more time.  I would have *loved* to have seen the Cabot
Trail.  No time.  Next time!

So thanks again to everyone for their comments.

David
________________________________________________________

> Last thoughts before you depart...
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> salmon, very fine stuff indeed featured many years ago by Craig
> Claibourne in the NY Times.
 
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