Travel Forum / Destinations / USA and Canada / February 2006

The Navajos generally don't seek out tourism -- especially (as they
see it) from their conquerors and oppressors. The level of
anti-outsider sentiment has grown significantly in recent years. Many
areas formerly open to "outsiders"  have been closed in recently:

"All hiking activity is hereby permanently closed. These actions set
forth are for safety precautions as well as preservation of historic
and sacred sites. The Kaibeto Chapter hereby requests the book
publishers, media, and etc. to cease all prints and advertisement to
the public on hiking anywhere within the Kaibeto vicinity."
http://www.blackrabbit.com/navajo.htm

Virtually all travel/hiking areas within the Rez now require permits
or guides. And these services are not either inexpensive nor easy to
get. This is a pity because some of the best of the Southwestern US
canyon country can only be seen on the Navajo Reservation. Some areas
are simply closed, like the Inscription House Ruins, Tsegi Canyon,
etc.

http://www.nps.gov/nava/adhi/adhi5c.htm

There are numerous books and reports that detail the amazing natural
wonders on Navajo lands -- primarily along the south side of Lake
Powell in the Navajo Mountain area. But access is difficult, the
natives are not very friendly, and the required permits are severely
limited. But this is truly wondrous country worthy of extreme effort.

There are people on the Reservation, of course, who will take
advantage of their unique offerings and profit from tourism. But the
costs are extremely high. Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon are good
examples of this. You can still see these places, but bring money.

The Navajo Reservation is a sovereign area, not considered part of the
United States, and they make their own rules. If you observe those
rules, great treasures can be found. But it isn't easy.

http://www.nps.gov/rabr/adhi/adhi5.htm
http://www.nps.gov/rabr/changes.htm

People interested in hiking the legendary North and South Rainbow
Trails can still do so, but things are getting more difficult. Hikers
are no longer permitted to walk under Rainbow Bridge in the National
Monument, for instance (the main access trail from Lake Powell to
these trails). And finding the trailheads from the south (for 15+ mile
backpacks) is difficult. But it can be done for the determined few.

Similarly, the Hopi Salt Trail is still open (with permit), but very
difficult to find. The trail is tough and leads into the bowels of the
Grand Canyon and the Sipapu holy place (off limits according to the
GCNP). and very few people do that trail these days.

Happily, my wife and I have done these trails during more lenient
times. But the time is fast approaching when these will no longer be
available. So if you want to see these places off the beaten track, go
soon. Time is running out.

Caveat

AAA has an Indian Country map that's pretty good. Has guide to
what to do on the back. Canyon de Chelly is a MUST DO. Take the
all-day tour. The tours are done in old military 6x6s.

Lodging on the reservation is pretty limited. Get the AAA travel
guide if you can.


  ************* DAVE HATUNEN (hatunen@cox.net) *************
   *       Tucson Arizona, out where the cacti grow         *
   * My typos & mispellings are intentional copyright traps *

You might just want to visit a large bookstore and browse the various
travel guides for the southwest U.S. and see which one best suits your
interests. Often the different guidebook companies have different
approaches and a guidebook that appeals to one person may not appeal to
someone else.

Some of those guidebook companies also post some of their info online;
for example at the Frommers site they have several pages about Monument
Valley (not much about hiking, although they mention a couple companies
that offer hiking tours)...

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/monumentvalley/1939010029.html

(On the left side of that page are links to their other pages about
Monument Valley.)

Jim

Check the Rough Guide Southwest USA book. Chapter one has some stuff on
those two areas.